Raincoat Raw Materials

The primary material in a raincoat is fabric that has been specially treated to repel water. The fabric of many raincoats is made of a blend of two or more of the following materials: cotton, polyester, nylon, and/or rayon. Raincoats can also made of wool, wool gabardine, vinyl, microfibers and high tech fabrics. The fabric is treated with chemicals and chemical compounds, depending on the kind of fabric. Waterproofing materials include resin, pyridinium or melamine complexes, polyurethane, acrylic, fluorine or teflon.

Cotton, wool, nylon or other artificial fabrics are given a coating of resin to make them waterproof. Woolen and cheaper cotton fabrics are bathed in a paraffin emulsions and salts of metals like aluminum or zirconium. Higher quality cotton fabrics are bathed in complexes of pyridinium or melamine complexes. These complexes form a chemical link with the cotton and are extremely durable. Natural fibers, like cotton and linen, are bathed in wax. Synthetic fibers are treated by methyl siloxanes or silicones (hydrogen methyl siloxanes).

In addition to the fabric, most raincoats consist of buttons, thread, lining, seam tape, belts, trim, zippers, eyelets, and facings.
Most of these items, including the fabric, are created by outside suppliers for raincoat manufacturers. The manufacturers design and make the actual raincoat.

Design

To capture part of the market, raincoat design changes with the season and current fashion trends. Fabrics, lengths, cut and look are important to appeal to the consumer. Style is everything; the cut is important to distinguishing items on the market. For men, women, and children, there are many different styles of raincoats: short, commuter, car coats, sport, utility, and long raincoats. New fibers and finishes are regularly introduced.

Computer-aided design (CAD) gives designers the ability to combine fabrics, styles, and colors onscreen without having to make a sample. Designers create the patterns for the manufacturing process using CAD.

The Manufacturing Process

Much of the manufacturing process is done by Computer Aided manufacturing (CAM). Machines are run by computers, ensuring speed and efficiency.

Waterproofing the fabric

1. In this automated process, fabric passes through a series of rollers and into a tank containing a bath of the appropriate waterproofing materials.

2. Chemicals are allowed to soak into the fabric.

3. After the material leaves the bath, it is heated so the chemicals soak evenly into the fabric.

4. The fabric passes through another series of rollers and allowed to cool. This allows the chemicals to harden and stay in place on the fabric.

5. The treated fabric is re-rolled into bolts and readied for shipment to raincoat manufacturers.

Manufacturing the raincoat

1. The pieces that make the body of the raincoat are cut by a computer-operated cutter or large electrical cutter. The fabric is cut according to patterns that have been graded to each size the raincoat will be made in.

2. The interlining (which makes collars, cuffs, front facings, sleeve straps, belts and pocket welts stiff) is put inside the appropriate parts. Each part that contains interlining is fused by an automated fusing machine. The fusing process uses high heat and pressure to ensure the interlining is put in evenly.

3. An industrial sewing machine operator uses an industrial machine to sew all the small parts of the raincoat, including the collar, belt, sleeve straps and pocket welts.

4. The facings (the underply of the coat that is sewn to the front edge) are set to the front edges of the fabric shell that makes up a coat's exterior. This is also done by a worker on an industrial sewing machine.

5. The large parts of the shell of the raincoat are assembled on an industrial sewing machine by a worker. Most come in pairs. First the right back panel and left back panel are joined together, creating a back seam. Then the rest of the large parts of the raincoat (the front of the raincoat, the sleeves etc.) are created in similar fashion.

6. On a separate line in the factory, a lining has been made. It is sewn into the appropriate pieces of the shell by a person.

7. All the large pieces of the raincoat are now assembled and sewn together by a worker using an industrial sewing machine.

8. An automated machine makes button-holes and sews the buttons on the raincoat.

9. Using an industrial sewing machine, the trim and sleeves are sewn on by hand. The belt is put on by hand as well.

10. The finished raincoat is examined by a inspector for quality control purposes.

11. A worker puts tags on the coat and puts it on the hanger.

12. A polybag is put over the coat, usually by a machine called an automatic bagger.

13. The bagged coats are loaded into the shipping container by a worker.

Quality Control

Quality control takes place at many steps of the manufacturing process. Before raincoats are even made, the quality of the fabric and dye are inspected. After the fabric is cut, the patterns must match and sizes must be right. As each piece is sewn together, the sewing is checked. The qualities inspectors look for include: stitch length, hem stitching, button-hole stitching and alignment, and seam type. Anything defective is corrected. When the raincoat is completed, each part of it is inspected by hand.

By products/Waste

In the actual production of raincoats, only scraps are created. They are usually thrown away.

The Future

The raincoat's fabric and its finishes will change. There will be improved water repellency, stain resistance, and wrinkle resistance. The fabrics themselves will have new weaves.

Another direction the future of raincoats might head is toward mass customization. This means the coat would be specially made to fit the consumer's body. Such a process would involve computers and the advent of certain kinds of software and scanning devices.

Where to Learn More

Book
Schoeffler, 0. E., and William Gale. Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1973.
Stone, Elaine. The Dynamics of Fashion. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1999.

Periodicals
Bober, Joanna. "Fashion 101: In the Trenches." InStyle (March 1, 1999): 141.

[Article by: Annette Petrusso]